Monday, January 14, 2008

January gardener


Though you may think there is nothing to do in January as a gardener I have supplied a list of things to do that will state otherwise. This list will help you stay ahead of your garden rather then it staying ahead of you.
In the following months I shall write a month by month guide will will allow you to utilize the amount of work you have in the garden during specific months rather then trying to do the work all at once thereby making your job as a gardener easier and your garden not only well kept but more beatified then ever.


-Protect vulnerable plants from the frost and wind damage.

-Brush heavy snow from shrubs,hedges and conifers so there is no danger of the branches breaking.

-Cut back any climbers from windows and doors.

-Firm any autumn planted shrubs and border plants back into the ground that were lifted by the frost.

-Order any seeds,plants,seedlings and summer bulbs.

-Under glass sow half hardy annuals that are slow to mature.

-Deadhead plants in containers,Move any pots containing vulnerable plants under cover if severe frosts are forecast.

-Cut down newly planted canes of blackberries and raspberries to within 9-11 inches of the ground.

-Germinate seeds such as begonias on windowsills indoors or in a greenhouse.

-Ensure fuchsias that overwintering to a protected area giving them as much light as possible so they will not become spindly or pale green.

-Bring in pots of forced bulbs for indoor flowering when ready.

-Protect winter flowering bulbous irises in the garden from severe cold or damp.

-Start forcing pots of lily bulbs for Easter and early summer flowering.

-Cut out broken,dead or diseased branches on established trees and shrubs.

-Wash and disinfect seed trays and pots so they will be ready for early spring sowing and planting.

-Pinch out rhododendron and azalea buds that are damaged by the frost to prevent the spread of disease.

- Make any necessary repairs to structures that are supporting plants such as trellises and arbors while the plants lay dormant.





I hope this list will be helpful to an easier but more beautified garden and until next time I would like to say happy gardening everyone.

Last but not least, going off topic for a moment I would like to applaud all the actors and actresses who are supporting the writers on strike and their deeds are not going unnoticed.

Cheers.

Friday, June 08, 2007

I have been working on this site virtually everyday as well as writing a few articles for other websites,most concerning gardening.I have been planning and writing for Artistic Visions Gardening in the meantime and my new peice is going to be fairly extensive, concerning how to make the best garden out of a small space.

Today I am going to post an article I wrote about soil types and how to optimize it. I have infact written it for another website,however;I shall add it here as well..

The first way to assess your soil is simply by looking at it.If it is black that is a great sign, if it is dark brown it is also a very good sign but if it is yellow,pale brown or streaky then you undoubtedly have a problem with your soil.The blacker your soil is, the more organic matter it will contain and the easier your soil is to work the better your plants will grow, needing less care and water.If your soil feels smooth and a bit like childrens play dough and if it sticks together in a clump this means your soil has a lot of clay in it.If you can see stones in your soil and it falls apart easily and quickly feeling gritty to touch then you have sandy soil.There are two ways to improve clay soil, the first is by adding compost or organic matter which can be purchased at most any gardening retailor. The second is by adding a gritty substance such as sand or small gravel.The first option is most likely the best option because it increases fertility and improves drainage, the second option really only increases drainage.For sandy soil organic matter is also the best route to take to improve your soil.A thought to remember is organic matter will always improve the soil no matter what type.For acid or limy soil you can buy a simple and inexpensive pH kit at any garden retailor to tell you how much acid or lime your soil holds.Knowing the acidity or the alkalinity of your soil will better enable you to choose the plants that will flourish in your garden.Acid soils grow great azaleas,heathers,rhododendrons,lupins and usually tend to produce blue flowers on the hydrangea.Alkaline soils grow good cabbage,broccoli, wild meadow flowers and usually tend to produce pink flowers on the hydrangea.No matter what soil type you have by following the methods mentioned not only will improve your soil but it will improve the plants in it.

Well I hope this information was helpful and until next time happy gardening everyone!

Wednesday, May 30, 2007

I have been searching endlessly for a respectable but yet reasonably priced company that sells plants and trees to add to my website and I have finally found it. Its name is Classy Groundcovers. Fortunately this company had what I required in a online website and the free shipping sure does help.They have been on the issue of a few magazines for one of the best companies so they are respectable.

I am still seaching for a respectable seed company that also has good prices but you will know when I find it and I will be sure to add it right away.

Tommorrow I will be adding a few tips for late spring gardens but until then happy gardening my fellow gardeners.
Tanya

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Minature Roses




I am finally getting around to posting once again.As I had previously mentioned, this write up is about miniature roses.

Don't let the delicate appearance fool you! These delightful little gems are hardy enough to grow outdoors in zones 5-10 without winter protection, and with a good cover of mulch they will survive winters as far north as zone 3. Miniature roses are surprisingly very easy to grow, and they look great as edgings for your beds or borders, accent plants for rock gardens, and as houseplants. They add class and color to just about any garden so I highly recommend them,they are truly one of my favorite plants.

Miniature roses range in size from the micro-minis which grow to about five inches, up to a height four feet or more. The flowers are from 1/2 inch to two inches in diameter, and the range of colors is quite similar to that of full-sized roses. Most types will bloom from spring until frost. Unfortunately unlike the full size roses, miniature roses have little or no fragrance and honestly the only downfall if you are looking for a fragrant plant.

When grown indoors as pot plants, miniature roses need a little special care. Even when grown in the sunniest window, they will usually need supplemental light. You will know your rose isn't getting enough light when the stems seem to stretch out leaving wide spaces between the leaves.

Miniature roses also need lots of humidity if kept indoors. Set your pot in a tray of pebbles and water. The pebbles will support the pot above the water level so the soil doesn't become waterlogged. As it evaporates, the water will provide the plant with extra humidity. If you house is very dry, run a cool-mist vaporizer now and then.

Spider mites aphids and whiteflies are drawn to indoor miniature roses. To reduce the chances of these pests attacking your plants, give them a weekly shower. Take care to thoroughly rinse both the tops and the undersides of the leaves. To treat whiteflies and aphids, use an insecticidal soap at five day intervals or spray with a solution of four parts water to three parts rubbing alcohol -- add a squirt of dish soap for good measure -- and keep the plant out of the light until the alcohol dries completely.
Soap spray and alcohol spray also work for spider mites, and you might also try buttermilk spray: mix 1/2 cup buttermilk with 4 cups wheat flour to 5 gallons of water. Quarantine infested plants until you are sure that the insects are irradiated. In extreme cases, you can strip the leaves off the plant and cut it back by half. Don't worry, you won't kill it, and you'll soon see signs of new growth.

For the best blooms, use a fertilizer that is high in potassium. The last number in the N-P-K ratio indicates the amount of potassium, and an N-P-K ratio of 5-5-10 is a good choice. Mix the fertilizer to about 1/4 strength and use it once a week.

After your roses spend a season indoors, it's best to plant them outdoors and get new, disease and pest-free plants to use indoors. They can be planted directly in the garden or kept in containers, but remember that outdoor plants in small containers can dry out quickly. Harden them off before placing them outdoors permanently.

Well thats about a wrap for today my fellow gardeners. Happy gardening.

Saturday, May 26, 2007

Site recontruction

I realize I did not post about the miniature roses right away,however;I have completely rewritten my script and have been working at it steadfastly to get it done as soon as possible.

I have added some of the sites where my photography is being sold as stock and honestly they are highly reputable stock companies that sell photos at very cheap rates.

I also added some gardening sites that may be of interest to everyone and will always be looking for new sites to add to this list.I am currently searching for the best seed company right now and will add it when I find it. I will make sure this company does offer an extensive range of seeds at good rates and also free catalogs to purchase from.

The google ads often have some good deals and interesting offers so I also added this to the site as well as the opportunity for other site owners to become a google affiliate.

Soon I will be reconstructing my floral site and as well as adding more to it.Check back often for my updates as well as posts which you may find interesting.

Until next time, happy gardening everyone and for those of you in the U.K happy bank holiday. I hope everyone had a good victoria day in Canada last weekend.
Cheers

Monday, May 21, 2007

Starting Seedlings Indoors
Requirements for starting seeds
Soil
Large seeds usually do a good when germinating them in garden soil, but seeds sown in flats or containers need light as well as loose soil that does not host fungi that will cause the seedlings to rot.To prevent these sort of problems, use a sterile,soilless potting mixture.Peat-based mixes designed specifically for starting seeds or a mixture of vermiculite,perlite and milled sphanum moss works well.Any container that drains easily and holds 2-3 inches of growing medium will work well for growing seedlings.Styrofoam cups with drainage holes punched in the bottem,pots,reusable plastic flats and peat pots all work great.
Moisture
Moisten the medium throughly before sowing your seed.The depth of the seedling should be three.After seed has been planted it should be kept in a warm place and kept watered on a regular basis until second set of leaves form.If outside simply keep watered on a regular basis to make sure that seed is damp enough to sprout.
My trick for starting seeds, preferably bigger seeds or middle size, never small because they are much to hard to work with is to dry 2 tea bags out,once dried dampen the tea bags and place seeds on one of the teabags and cover with the second.Set in a high humidity area and do not over water. Within a few days your seeds should begin to spilt and/or sprout.I do not recommend this for everyone,however; it does work well for me.
Well that is about all for now.
Happy gardening everyone.Tomorrow I shall be doing miniature roses,gotta love them in the garden!

Tuesday, May 08, 2007

Spring is in the air

Well I am back to say the least.I have been moving around quite a bit, got married, working and also trying to finish my novel, so I've been having a real hard time keeping up to this as well,however;I have decided to make the time.
April/May Gardening Tasks

Planning:
Choose planting areas based on exposure to sun, shade, wind as well as distance from water source. Study garden for gaps that can be filled by spring flowering bulbs, and put in order in August. Choose flowering trees and shrubs for color and time of bloom to add to the garden in fall.
Chores and Maintenance: Continue to remove winter mulches and debris. Continue to dig beds in preparation for planting. Complete adding compost to planting bed soil. Place peony supports as well as any other flowers that require it. Cultivate planting beds and carefully remove weeds (Alway make sure you know what you are removing,before removing it) Remove mounded earth from roses. Prepare bare-root and potted roses for planting; soak overnight in fish emulsion Continue to apply horticultural oil sprays to control insect pests on trees if temperature is over 40. Test lawn soil and apply lime if warranted
Planting: Continue to plant deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs, weather and soil conditions permitting. Sow seeds of hardy annuals in place in the garden. Sow seeds of peas, carrots and radishes. Start seed indoors for summer crops. Plant out seedlings of cauliflower, cabbage and broccoli if soil is workable. Plant out seedlings of cool-season annuals like pansies and snapdragons. Continue to plant and transplant perennials. Complete rose planting. Plant strawberries. Re-seed bare lawn areas. Most importantly going by both knowledge and experience, for any already grown plants, always wait until the last full moon in May before planting, it is then you can be sure that all plants will survive.
Pruning/Fertilizing: Complete removal of diseased, weak, or crossing branches Complete rose pruning but wait until after flowering on climbers and ramblers Prune late flowering shrubs such as buddleia and hydrangea Prune early spring-flowering shrubs immediately after flowers die Wait to prune evergreens, hedges and other shrubs until early summer Fertilize fruit trees and roses Fertilize perennials when you see 2-3 cm of new growth Fertilize bulbs as they finish blooming Complete lawn fertilization if not done in the fall
Indoors: Continue to transplant houseplants which need repotting Continue to inspect for pests and control as needed Complete shaping leggy houseplants .
Well that is a wrap for today. Happy gardening everyone and enjoy one of the most wonderful times of the year for gardeners!

Monday, February 07, 2005

Added the Plant site I wanted

I do not have any write ups planned for today,busy working on the script to be honest. I have also added a small banner for the #1 site for flowers,bulbs corms,herbs and even shrubs.I have ordered from them in the past and they are great as well as their stock and plant supply!
It was between 2 companies and I chose them.
I love the free catalogs they send every couple of months. It is a great way to stay up to date on new plants, and to make a wish list:) I have made many from the catalogs they send out because they have some of the most beautiful plants I have seen and being a plant lover I would know.I figured since this is a gardening site and I would like it to be reputable, I would also add a reputable flower company so my site itself would be up to standards.
Anyways check it out. A free flower and plant catalog never hurts!

Happy gardening!

Sunday, February 06, 2005

Tips

Well I am not quite sure as to what happened to my floral gallery script, but if you check it I have completely changed it and to be honest I like the outcome.It is simple and yet effective.I have not had much time to do anything but work on this script today,however;I shall post a few tips.



Control Crabgrass in Lawns

In mild winter areas, crabgrass seeds will be germinating soon. Apply an organic preemergent herbicide made from corn gluten to kill the seeds as they germinate. This product also adds nitrogen to the lawn.


Stand Up Young Trees

Young birch, oak and maple trees that have flopped over due to snow and ice loads should be straightened once the snow and ice has melted. Gently pull the trees upright and secure them with rope to a stake or larger tree for support and to correct.

Use Heat Mats for Seeds

The best soil temperature for most seeds is in the 70Fs. Use heat mats to keep the seed starting soil warm. These electrical devices are placed under the seed-starting trays and keep the soil consistently warm while the seeds germinate. You will have to keep an eye of them more so they will not dry out,however;they are very beneficial and can speed the process so to speak.





That is it for today.
Until the next time be well and be safe.
Happy gardening!

Saturday, February 05, 2005

Gardening Definitions

Many people know the terms of gardening while many do not. I decided a gardening definition to certain words could be very useful, especially if you are an amatuer gardener and are not quite positive as to what certain words and terms are.

Gardening Definitions


Annual Plant:
A annual is a plant that completes its life cycle
in one year. This means it goes from seed to seed
and then dies off, during the course of one
growing season. The whole mission of an annual is
to produce seed and propagate. That's why
deadheading or removing spent flowers before the
seed matures, produces more flowers and therefore
more potential seeds.
Some tender perennials are grown as annuals in
colder climates. For a perennial to be worth
growing as an annual, it must flower profusely in
its first year of growth. Pansies, lantana and
alyssum are all actually tender perennials.
There are also plants considered to be hardy
annuals. This just means that they are able to
withstand a little frost without being killed off
and will continue to bloom and set seed into the
next year, but they will eventually expire.
Bachelor Buttons and Salvia Victoria are examples.


Biennal flower or plant:
A biennial is a plant that requires two growing
seasons to complete its life cycle. During the
first growing season it produces mainly foliage.
In it's second year it will flower and set seed,
often early in the season. Parsley is a biennial
that goes to seed in the spring and becomes less
valuable as a culinary plant. Some biennials, like
hollyhocks, self seed and appear to be perennial.


Compost:
Compost is the end product of the decomposition of
organic matter. Organic matter includes: garden
waste, kitchen scraps, manure, leaves, grass
clippings, straw... There are many methods of
composting, but all organic matter will eventually
decompose, with or without our help.
Compost is not particularly high in essential
nutrients, (N-P-K), and is considered a soil
conditioner rather than a fertilizer. However;
organic matter is a valuable soil amendment
because it: can improved soil structure, aids in
necessary microbial activity in the soil, attracts
beneficial insects such as earthworms, can
suppress several soil born diseases and holds its
nutrients in organic or slow release form,
allowing for availability throughout the growing
season. While there are many methods of composting
and many composting bin styles, there is no best
method. As the bumper sticker says, "Compost
Happens". The important thing to remember is that
you can never add too much compost to your soil.
You can till compost directly into the soil or add
some as a side dressing to established plants.
Also Known As: Humus Organic Matter

Deadheading:
Deadheading refers to the removal of dead or spent
flowers either to encourage more flowering or to
improve the general appearance of the plant. Most
annuals and many perennials will continue to bloom
throughout the growing season if deadheaded.
Rudbeckia and Echinacea are good examples of
perennials that benefit from deadheading.
Deadheading can be accomplished by pruning the
spent flowers or even by pinching them off with
your fingers. For plants with a profusion of tiny
flowers, like threadleaf coreopsis, it is often
easier to deadhead by shearing back the whole
plant. It will take a little longer to set new
flowers, but it will.

Herbaceuos perennial plants:
When a plant is called herbaceous, it means that
the stems are soft or succulent and green, as
opposed to brown and woody. Generally soft, green,
herbaceous growth will die back to the ground in
cold, winter climates. The roots of the perennial
plant are alive and well and new growth will
emerge in the spring.

Hybrid plants:
A hybrid is a cross between two different plant
varieties to get the valued attributes of each
variety. Hybrids are developed for disease
resistance, size, flowering, color, taste and any
reason a plant might be considered special. Most
modern plants currently on sale are hybrids.
Because they are a cross between varieties, the
seed produced by hybrids will not necessarily
roduce a plant similar to it. Seedlings grown
from a hybrid could exhibit traits of one or both
parent plants or be something totally surprising.
With patience, hybrid seeds can be carefully
selected and grown out until they eventually
stabilize and will grow true to the parent hybrid,
however; most seed companies simply continue cross
breeding to produce the seed.

Propagation:
A means of reproducing plants by placing an intact
branch or stem in contact with soil, encouraging
it to send out roots. Once rooted, the branch can
be severed from the mother plant, roots and all,
and planted elsewhere.

Open pollinated plants:
Open pollinated or OP plants are varieties that
grow true from seed This means they are capable of
producing seeds from this seasons plants, which
will produce seedlings that will be just like the
parent plant, however some plants will naturally be cross
pollinated with other plants, so even if it is OP,
the seeds resulting from a cross pollination could
yield a different plant. Peppers will cross
pollinate with other plants and if your sweet
peppers are too close to your hot peppers, you
will eventually wind up with a lot of hot peppers.

Perennial Plants:
Perennials are considered to be ornamental plants
that do not die after one season of growth. This
does not mean they live forever. In fact many
perennials are considered to be short-lived,
lasting only 2-3 years. Rose campion is a short
lived perennial, but because it self-seeds so
readily, it appears to live much longer.
Not all plants with the ability to be perennial
are hardy in all areas. This is why planting zones
are so important. Knowing what zone you garden in
will allow you to determine what plants will
survive in your area.
The term perennial is generally reserved for
plants with showy flowers, excluding ornamental
grasses and other plants mainly grown for their
foliage. The term herbaceous perennial further
narrows the group to plants with soft, green stems
that die back to the ground in colder climates.
Trees, shrubs and other woody stemmed plants are
excluded.


Hope that's useful.
Until the next time be well and be safe.
Happy gardening!





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